Feature

The fair is older than the state

The fair is older than the state
Image credit: Beyond Enumclaw / Enumclaw.com

It opens on the plateau this week, the way it has since 1863, twenty-six years before there was a Washington to put it in

“You can love a thing, and do right by it, and still have to let it go. That's not a lesson you explain. It's a lesson you hand a kid a lead rope for."That barn is the actual fair. Everything else is the carnival that grew up around it.”

Here’s the fact people say too fast to feel: the King County Fair has been happening since 1863. Sit with the year. Washington wasn’t a state in 1863. It wasn’t going to be one for another twenty-six years. There was no Washington to hold a Washington fair in, there was a territory, and a lot of trees, and enough people already growing and raising things that they wanted to gather once a year and show each other what they’d done. The fair is older than the state it lives in. By its own telling it’s the oldest county fair west of the Mississippi, and whether or not you feel like arm-wrestling over that, the date is the date. This gathering predates the government.

It didn’t always happen here. Over the years the fair drifted around King County, it was up in Georgetown, then Renton, before it finally settled onto the plateau in Enumclaw in the 1960s, which is the civic equivalent of a restless thing finally finding the right chair. But wherever it sat, the fair kept doing the one identical thing it has always done: people bring what they grew and raised, lay it out, and let the neighbors look. A hundred and sixty summers of that. The rides changed. The food got more alarming. The thing underneath never moved.

And the thing underneath is those kids in the barn.

Somewhere in this county, a year ago, a lot of children took on an animal. A steer, a hog, a lamb, a goat, a pen of rabbits. They fed it before school. They kept records, actual records, weights and feed and costs, because 4-H makes them, and it turns out you can teach a ten-year-old real bookkeeping if there’s a goat attached. They learned the unglamorous middle of caring for something: the part that isn’t cute, the early mornings, the vet bills, the days you don’t feel like it and the animal needs you anyway.

Then they bring it here, to the oldest fair in the state, and they show it. And then, this is the part that stays with you, a lot of them sell it. The auction is a real auction with real money, and the animal a kid raised all year goes home with somebody else. The child knew this going in. Everyone knew. And they did the whole year of work anyway, on purpose, because the fair is quietly one of the last machines we’ve got for teaching a person something that doesn’t fit on a worksheet: you can love a thing, and do right by it, and still have to let it go. That’s not a lesson you explain. It’s a lesson you hand a kid a lead rope for.

Out past the barns the rest of it roars along. The midway with its bulbs and its screaming and its games nobody wins. The grandstand. The food that exists nowhere else on earth and answers to no nutritional authority. Somebody’s prize zucchini the size of a forearm, wearing a ribbon. A quilt that took all winter. Honey in jars, held up to the light. It’s loud and a little garish and completely wonderful, and it’s all arranged, whether the town planned it this way or not, in a ring around those quiet barns. The carnival on the outside. The actual point in the middle.

Once a year the plateau’s two selves stand in the same field. The farm town and the regular town, the 4-H kid and the kid who just wants the Tilt-A-Whirl, the family that’s shown cattle for four generations and the family that moved out here last spring, all of them, on the same fairgrounds, at the same gathering that was old before the state was born. You don’t get many things anymore that a whole town does together, that its great-great-grandparents also did, in more or less the same way, for more or less the same reason. This is one. It’s been one since before there was a “here” to have it in.

The gates open this week. Go. Eat the thing you’ll regret. Lose at the ring toss. But at some point, walk into the livestock barns while it’s still quiet, and find the kid with the brush and the animal she’s about to say goodbye to. Stand there a second. You’re looking at the oldest thing this town does, and one of the truest, and it doesn’t cost extra.

Older than the state. Still the best show on the plateau.

Consider it.

This story first appeared in Beyond Enumclaw, the free Substack newsletter from Enumclaw.com. Subscribe to get new stories in your inbox.

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